CLICK FOR AUDIO interview with Felix Valdez
[© "A Look At Who Distresses Distressed Jeans" reported by Patrick Hirsch for Marketplace from American Public Media]
Growing up my mom always said, “keep it simple” but somehow simple has gotten expensive. Some will say it pays to spend money on timeless pieces… is that denim? After I researched a brief history of denim, I still had questions and sought out answers…

The Privy of Denim
This is where Felix Valdez comes into play. He currently works as an Art Director for Ralph Lauren in New York City. He is the “quintessential” man for fabric, wash, and texture development of denim according to some. Felix stumbled upon his niche 8 years ago working as a gofer at the high-end Laundry-First Finish in Los Angeles, thus launching his career with Gap Inc. He continues exploring, experimenting and using denim as his medium for art and work. Due to luck and peculiar niche, Felix seems to have landed a great job. He’s not brilliant, intelligent or very inventive but he seems to get the job done.
by corine michel
Interview with Felix Valdez:
What’s your favorite part of a blue jean and why? The way it wears through out the years and molds to your personal fit.
What can consumers expect out of denim for the rest of 2009? It’s really about detail. Nice, dark, broken-in (industrial raw look) but not over processed.
Why are the cost of some jeans going up? One major reason is that US brands started to produce (cut, sew, wash, package) denim patterns domestically, which means cost is going to be more expensive. Also, designers like to buy European and/or Japanese fabric for its’ superior quality. My take of his response in a mathematical equation: [(you have) $6-$20 / per yard x 3.5 yards = 1 jean – (trim + wash + overhead)]. There’s a milieus of logistics I don’t want to bore you with.
Do you think price equates to quality? YES! As the adage goes “ You get what you pay for.” A lot of high-end brands have moved production to China. It’s now harder to correct and control fitting issues within a timely manner for production and delivery from across the world! Also, the quality of fabric [from China] is more inconsistent and harder to control in the wash but it’s just a matter of adjusting.
What jeans would you recommend for under $50? I’d recommend Gap or American Eagle. They buy the same fabrics as some high-end jean makers because they’re able to purchase in much much larger quantities.
What do you think of Levi’s? I LOVE Levi’s. It’s true America. I love to collect the true BIG E vintage Levi’s. They only make Big E Levi’s for their higher-end brand; Capitol E. At the end of the day, everybody wants to knock off Levi’s.

Hip or Horrible?

When I say "cross" you say...
What’s the worst attempt of street fashion you’ve seen on denim? ACID WASH and Cross Colors!!!
You seem to like raw and vintage jeans, why’s that? I am a purist when it comes to denim. Denim was a blue-collar fabric and was never meant to be washed. I dislike brands such as True Religion, 7 jeans, Energie and Citizens on men. I don’t purchase jeans from brands that originally catered to women.
Why’s that Felix? Low rise? Really? Boot cut? Their cut is more feminine than what I like. Also, they tend to purchase fabrics with poly stretch which gives it a sheen.
Thank you Felix! I honestly have to say I never realized the intricacies of a blue jean. You’re welcome. I hope this helped.
A Brief Summary on the History of Denim for the Aficionado:
18th century: Slave laborers wore jean cloth because it was very strong and didn’t wear easily.
19th century: California gold miners wore denim. In 1853, Levi Strauss opens a west coast branch of his brothers’ New York dry goods business in San Francisco. The company begins producing denim overalls in the 1870s, and the modern jeans in the1920s.
1930′s: Denim becomes popular in Western movies when cowboys depicts a stylish-rugged look.
1940′s: During World War II American soldiers wear them off duty thus broadening the international market with Wrangler and Lee.
1950′s: Denim becomes widely popular thanks to James Dean [Rebel Without a Cause].
1960-70′s: Hippie generation embraces new designs (i.e. bell-bottoms, embroidered). Jeans become a symbol of ‘ western decadence’ in non-western countries and are heavily sought after.
1980′s: Jeans become high fashion. Designers start to produce their own labels.
1990′s: Denim explores different finishes, cuts, shapes, styles: aged, authentic, and vintage.
2000′s: Denim reinvents itself as the single most potent fashion statement creating multitudes of mini, micro and niche markets. Denim is incorporated in the world of high drama, high class, and high-heeled fashion.